The list of over 200 definitions on terms used by coarse anglers.
Coarse terminology varies for many different reasons. The many different styles and techniques that make coarse fishing what it is, has influenced the way we speak. The following list is a compilation of all the terms that I could think of.
If you know any
words that should be included, then please send an e-mail with details, and I will see
what can be done. :)
~ Click on the appropriate letter ~
Hint: Try using the 'Edit'...'Find in Page' command.
Adjustable bankstick:
( See Bankstick ) A bankstick that has a sliding insert that allows you to change the height.
Anti tangle lead:
Similar to an in-line lead but has a long length of silicone tubing either side of the lead weight to protect the line from abrasion.
Attractants:
A flavour additive that is used with or part of the bait, or mixed into the groundbait. Typical flavours can be sweet or spicy.
B.F.C:
A 'Bloody Fine Carp' or 'Big Frigging Cracker', depending on your nationality ! <grin>
Back leads:
A small device used to force your line down to the bottom. It is a small lead weight that is tethered to a stick pushed into your bank. The lead has a small open clip at the top on which you push over your line. The weight is then dropped down under the water, pulling the line down with it. When a fish strikes, the line pulls up and out of the open clip.
Back shot:
A back shot is a piece of shot placed on the line behind a float to help it remain steady in windy conditions. The piece of shot is usually placed about 20 cm's away from the float tip. It may be necessary to use a piece of shot from the float rig so it doesn't sink.
Bait dropper:
A device used to drop groundbait right down to the bottom of your swim. It is basically a cage that, when lowered down to the bottom, has a latch that is pushed up and opens the cage door, letting the bait fall out.
Bait rocket:
A device tied onto the end of your line. It is filled with boilies or other particle bait, and cast out over your swim. When the device hits the water, it flips upside down and empties out any of the stuff inside.
Baitrunner reel:
A special design open face, rear drag reel that has a lever at the back. This allows you to set the spool so line can be pulled out by fish freely. When activated, it activates your normal drag mechanism. Very handy when ledgering for big fish out far.
Balling up:
This is when you make balls of groundbait and throw them in great quality into your swim. Be very careful that you don't overfeed the fish in your swim !! I recommend that you only do this in warm weather, and when the fish are actively feeding.
Bankstick:
Something that holds a fishing rod off the ground. It is made of stainless steel or aluminium rod and has a threaded end, so you can attach a rod rest. The other end is pushed into the ground. It is very similar to a 'Y' shaped stick. The fishing rod lays on top of the rod rest. Use two so that your rod is held at the right position.
Barbless hooks:
( See Hooks. ) These are hooks that are made without a barb. Barbs on hooks are not actually needed. If you keep a tight line when fighting fish, then you won't loose them. Barbs can cause needless damage to a fishes mouth and can inhibit hooking fish. My hook up rate has increased about 6% to 8%. This in itself is reason to try them. It is also very easy to unhook fish and if you break off, the fish will be able to spit out the hook and not becoming tethered and die. NB: Try bending a barb down and see what I mean !
Beads:
Beads are useful for many things. They are small plastic or rubber balls with a hole through the centre. They can be used for buffering leads and things in rigs.
Bite alarms:
( See Swing indicator & Buzz bar. ) Bite alarms are where modern technology meets fishing ! These are electronic units that detect the speed and movement of your line. They have a buzzer that 'beeps' at you when the line moves. Expensive models have a tone that changes with the speed of the line movement. They can also have LED lights as a visual indicator. If you want to go all out and get a Rolls Royce model, then you can even get a radio remote beeper that lets you know what is going on from up to 100 meters away ! These alarms can be used in conjunction with Swing indicators. These are usually used in combination with a buzz bar.
Bivies:
These are very similar to tents. ( Well, they are tents ! <grin> ) These are domed tents that have a large opening at the front so that you can fish from under them. Talk about luxury ! People even have beds to sleep in and remote controlled alarms to wake you up if you gat a fish. The closest thing I have is an umbrella ! ( Though if I was given one I wouldn't say no ! ) <grin>
Blank:
A blank can be two things. The first term describes what the main part of a rod is. It is the long flexible length that has guides and a handle added to make the completed 'rod'.
The other is a horrible day when you do not catch any fish at all.
If this is prolonged, it can cause mental instability
Block end feeders:
( See Feeders ) This type of feeder has its ends covered, and a few holes around the body. This helps to control the speed at which the groundbait falls out. Maggots are the main type of bait used in this type of feeder.
Bodied waggler:
( See Floats & Wagglers. ) Bodied wagglers have a buoyant bulb near the bottom of the float that increases the amount of shot needs to set it. The advantage of using them is that that exaggerate the float tip movement when a fish takes the bait.
Boilies:
( See Boilie rolling table. ) Boilies are small round balls of man made bait. They are used a lot in Europe where the fish have been caught many times. These can be made with different ingredients and flavour additives. The most effective flavours are sweet ones like strawberry, though spicy and fishmeal ones work well during Summer.
Boilie hair stops:
( See Hair rigs. ) Boilies work best when placed onto a hair rig. To keep the boilies on the hair rig, you can use something called a boilie hair stop. This is simply a small piece of plastic with bulbs at each end. Sort of like a small dumbbell. You can use a bit of grass to do the same thing. Most people do, it's cheaper !
Boilie needle:
( See Hair rigs. ) Hair rigs require something for the bait to be put on with. This can be done with a boilie needle. This is basically a needle that has had one side of the eye removed, making a small hook. You put the boilies or whatever bait you want to use onto this needle. You then hook the hair rig loop onto the needle and pull the bait down onto the hair. Put a bit of grass or boilie stop to hold the bait on and you have it all set.
Boilie rolling table:
( See Sausage gun. ) Boilie rolling tables are something that can be used to make lots of boilies at once. It's basically a table that has lots grooves lined up next to each other. The boilie mix is rolled into long sausages and places across the grooves. A lid is pushed down on the sausage so it squeezes down into the grooves, then you push and pull the lid and the boilie mix is rolled into even balls. These boilies can either be left to be air-dried, boiled or microwave.
Boilie throwing stick:
Throwing sticks are about a foot long and have a slightly curved, channelled end at the top. Boilies are placed into this channel. You hold it with one hand so that the bend and channel opening are pointing forwards. To use one, you have to swing it slowly above your shoulder so it is resting above and behind you. You then swing it over the shoulder, out towards the water in front of you. This throws the boilies into your swim. You can get phenomenal distances with these, and they come in different lengths for different distances. i.e. 'far' or 'intercontinental' <grin>
Braid:
( See Fishing line. ) Braided line, or braid for short is made up with strong yet supple fibres. It is used primarily as very strong hooklength material when targeting big carp. It has the advantage of blending into the bottom and to be very softly felt on fishes lips. It may seem a strange thing to use, but almost all specimen carp are caught with it when ledgered.
Bread crumb:
( See Groundbait. ) Bread crumb is simply ground up bread. This is the best and cheapest base for any groundbait. You can use either white or brown bread crumb. Fresh ground bread is by far the best version. It is very fluffy and clouds the water very well. You can use bags of crumb but the best results are if this is moistened the night before. If it is moistened on the bank, allow some time for it to absorb any water so it sinks correctly.
Bread flake:
Bread flake is piece of cut or torn bread that is pinched onto the hook. Note : Be careful that the hook point doesn't get blocked.
Bread punch:
A bread punch is a small hand held implement that has a circular 'punch' at the end. This is pushed down onto a slice of bread and a bit of it is cut out. This bit of bread is placed onto the hook. There are many different sizes of punches for different hook sizes.
Breaking Strain:
The point at which the fishing line breaks.
Brolly:
( See Umbrella. ) A short way of saying Umbrella.
Bulk Shot:
( See Shotting pattern & Shirt buttoned shot. ) When the shot that goes onto the line is put together in a group. NB: remember to keep this bulked shot closer to the hook than the float so you don't get tangles.
Bung:
( See poles. ) Bungs are used inside a pole. They are a small conical piece of plastic that fits inside the second or third section of a pole. They are used as an anchor to hold the end of elastics.
Buzz bar:
( See Rod pods and Bite alarms.. ) A buzz bar designed to attach to a rod pod. It is simply a horizontal bar that screws onto the top of a rod pod. One goes on the front and one on the rear. Buzz bars have screw in attachments which allow you to screw in multiple rod rests. You can have bars that allow for two, three or four rods on the one rod pod. This lets you to fish with many rods in one position on the bank. Electronic bite alarms and swing indicators are usually used on buzz bars and Rod pods. These indicators are connected directly onto the buzz bar, on the side closest to the water when fishing.
Cammo leads:
( See Lead bombs. ) Cammo leads have a painted cover that helps it to blend into the bottom when you are fishing. This can help to hide it from wary fish.
Canal stool:
( See Seat box. ) A canal stool is really a smaller version of a seat box. It is basically a cushioned seat that has four height adjustable legs at each corner. It is a very simple but very effective designed seat.
Carbon fibre:
Carbon fibre is a material that is used to make many of today's rods and poles. It is a very strong and rigid fibre. The way it is wrapped and weaved gives varying qualities for rods and poles.
Carp bed:
Carp beds are used when you are fishing overnight. They are basically a comfortable fold up bed, used in bivies.
Carp chairs:
These are reclined and padded fold up chairs. They help alleviate the stresses of a hard days fishing ! <grin>
Carp controller float:
Controllers are a large weighted float used for surface fishing for carp. They help you cast out to the right spot, and their size helps control movement on the water surface.
Carp crunchers:
( See Poles and Elastics. ) A carp cruncher is a term given to poles that are made to have the strength to fish for, and land double figure carp. Carp can break light match poles made for much smaller and less vigorous fish. Carp poles are often heavier than other poles, but improved technology in pole making is producing lighter and stronger poles. The typical carp pole length is 11 meters, with a 12.5 meter extender. Carp pole elastics range from size 14 up to size 20. ( Most powerful. ) Size 14 is the minimum recommended size for this type of pole.
Carp rods:
( See Rods. ) Carp rods are made to be strong, yet have a good constant test curve. They are usually around 11 feet long. The rods are usually made with carbon fibre or with a carbon / fibreglass composition. They also usually have a fixed, screw reel seat. The most common test curves for carp rods, are between 1.5 lbs. up to 3.5 lbs. ( Strongest. ) Carp are very strong fighters. They can grow up to and over 50 lbs. You need to use a rod with lots of strength so that you can fight, land and release the fish quickly. If you use a very light rod, then you won't be able to maintain control over the fish and it may stay hooked for up to 20 minutes ! This can put a great deal of stress on the fish and it may get sick or die.
Carp sack:
Carp sacks are a specialised bag designed to hold a carp in the water in place of a keepnet. They are made of padded material that is designed not to harm any fish placed in it. The fish is placed into this sack. The sack is designed to help keep fish calm by covering the fishes head and eyes. It is placed back down under the water, and is tethered to the bank.
People usually use these when they have a specimen fish they wish to have someone photograph or witness. I personally don't think it is humane to keep a fish tethered in one place for any period of time. Many other coarse anglers are beginning to discourage the use of these on specimen carp. I feel it is very selfish to put a fish through needless stress just so we fishermen can take a photo or get a witness to sight it.
Carp sling:
This is a specialised sling used for weighing fish. It is designed to weigh one fish at a time. The netting used is also designed to reduce the amount of protective slime that is removed from the fish. These can be a separate sling or incorporated into special carp landing net heads. These special carp net heads arms are designed to fold up together over the fish. The net can then be removed and act as the sling.
Casters:
Casters are the chrysalis form of a maggot. They are approximately 1 cm long and .5 cm wide. They are shaped like a rounded capsule. A casters colour varies between light and dark brown. Live casters work better than dead ones. The best way to hook them is to either bury the hook inside one, or to 'top 'n' tail' one. This is done by hooking the ends of two so they still point down parallel with each other.
Catapult:
Catapults are a form of sling shot. They are used to throw out small amounts of groundbait with great accuracy. I consider them to be a mandatory piece of tackle to have. They are 'Y' shaped. The two upward arms curve down in a 'U' shape. They have two pieces of elastic attached at the tops of the two upward arms. The other ends of the two pieces of elastic are attached to a pouch. This pouch has a tag at the back to hold on to. Groundbait or loose feed is put into the pouch. You then grasp the catapult handle with one hand and the pouch tag with the other hand. You should pull the handle away from you and not the pouch towards you. This lets you be able to keep the pouch hand on your rod or pole. Once you have the catapult in the right position, you can let the pouch go. The first few times you use one you will throw bait everywhere ! Don't worry. Keep practicing and your body learns instinctively on the angles and 'draw back' distances needed to drop the bait into the right area. Very handy device
Catch and Release:
The most important thing when fishing. It is the policy of returning every fish you are not going to eat or use. Just because you may not like the fish you have caught, it doesn't mean that you should kill it ! I find the needless death of this wonderful resource a great waste of life. The first rule of Coarse Fishing is that you must respect the fish and treat them appropriately.
Chopped worm:
( See Perch punch. ) Chopped worm is simply what it says, bits of worm chopped up into small pieces. Chopped worm is a great attractant for species like Redfin Perch. It is also very effective if made into perch punch. This bait is a great additive to groundbait as the worm juices blend into it.
Chum mixer:
Chum mixer is a type of dog biscuit. Any dog biscuit works brilliantly as a floating bait during Summer. All you have to do is put it in a hair rig and use a controller float, cast it out, throw out some biscuits around it and wait for a bite !
Coarse fish:
A term created by the British Aristocracy. All fish other than game fish are coarse fish. These were generally the fish that weren't good to eat. I am not sure what the other European countries define as their version of coarse fishing.
Coarse fishing:
Coarse fishing is advanced freshwater fishing. It encompasses many different techniques and methods used to catch coarse fish. The major techniques classified under coarse fishing are; Ledgering, Float fishing, Pole fishing, Lure fishing, Bait fishing etc. Many different species are targeted such as; Carp, Pike, Bream, Roach, Barbel, Tench etc. Have a look at my site to learn more about coarse fishing.
Cocktail:
A cocktail is a term given to using two types of bait on the hook at the same time. Combination like corn and worm, boilies and beans etc all work well. It can often make your bait more attractive to more fish. It can also help your bait be a bit different to your groundbait.
Composite:
( See Carbon fibre & Fibreglass. ) This term is used to describe the use of two or more materials to make a rod or pole. The two most common types of fibre used are Carbon fibre and Fibreglass. Carbon fibre is very light and strong but a bit brittle. Fibreglass is soft but incredibly strong. These combined can get the best qualities from both materials. Unfortunately these rods and poles are often heavier.
Continental:
This is a term given to any tackle or technique favoured in Europe. The Europeans have excelled in coarse fishing. Their techniques and tackle are top quality. The poles made in Italy and France are internationally renowned !
Cracker:
A 'cracker' is a very good fish. These are typically the ones that impress you.
Crease:
This is one of the most important features you can use when fishing. Bodies of water like rivers and even lakes have moving water. The crease is the area in water where the fast water meets the slow water. Look for the line on the surface that separates rippled water from calm water. The crease actually goes right down into the water. It pays to remember that water is a three dimensional object. Fish often are found to swim in the calm water right next to a crease, facing in the direction of the water flow. This is so that they can conserve energy and pick up any food that is brought past them in the fast flow. Always try casting near the crease when fishing. You can often find some extra fish waiting there.
Crystal waggler:
( See Floats & Wagglers. ) Crystal wagglers are normal wagglers that have been made out of transparent plastic. They often hollow and can bee seen through. These are great to use when fishing very shallow water on sunny days. The idea is that a fish may see the splash of it being cast in but not see the float under the water. I often use this type of float. I don't know if my catch rate has increased because of it but it helps avoid scaring away small fish.
Deadbait:
Deadbait is simply fishing with dead fish. It is the used to catch predatory fish like Pike and Zander. Often only the specimen fish will be caught on deadbait. Some British venues don't allow fish to be brought in from outside to help prevent decease spreading.
Diamond eye threader:
A diamond eye threader is a longer version than the type used to tread the eyes on needles. It is made from thin stainless steel wire. The wire is shaped as a four sided diamond, with a thin point at the top. The wire is wrapped into a long length on from the diamond. The diamond eye treader is used to thread elastic through the top section of poles. This is done by inserting one end into the top most pole section, until it pops out at the other end. You place some elastic through the diamond eye, then pull the diamond eye threader back out, so that the elastic is pulled through. Trust me, it is far better to get this cheep item, than to spend hours trying to get the elastic through by itself ! I have tried !!! <grin>
Disgorger:
Disgorger's are a device used to help remove hooks from a fishes mouth. It is basically just a small length of round plastic, that has a special end that slides over the shank of the hook, and is pushed down against the hook bend, resulting in the hook sliding out.
Drop back indicator:
( See Swing indicator. ) Drop back indicators are a device used to see if a fish is swimming towards you. Normally, fish are not detectable if they do, as your line goes slack. This means that normal bite indicators don't work. Drop back indicators come in normal or electronic forms. They are positioned on the rear bankstick, near your reel. The indicator uses a free hanging open end clip that hooks onto the line between your reel and the first rod ring. When a fish takes your bait and swims away, the line will pull the clip on indicator up. If a fish swims toward you, then the line will go slack and the clip on indicator will drop down. The electronic version of this indicator beeps when it detects this line movement. NB: A swing indicator works on a similar principle, and when used with a bite alarm, will detect any line movement.
Elastics:
( See Poles. ) Elastics are used with pole fishing. They are placed inside the top three sections of a pole tip to help catch fish. The pole tip is usually cut off and a protective PTFE bush added, so that the elastic can be pulled in and out of the end, without being damaged. The elastic is threaded into the poles three top sections. The elastic end at the pole tip is tied onto a Stonfo adaptor. This is the thing where you tie your fishing rigs. The other end is anchored inside the end if the third section with a pole bung. Elastics act to cushion any fish surging away. They also help to fight and land fish. Elastic is pulled out from inside the pole by fighting fish. When a fish stops pulling, the tension pulls the elastic back inside the pole.
Elastics come in varying strengths. The No. of an elastic is the breaking strain in lbs. They range from No. 1 ( smallest ), to No. 20 ( largest ). The diameter of the elastic increases as it gets bigger. Different poles only allow for different elastic sizes. Most match poles designed to catch small fish are very light and thin walled. These can often only accept smaller elastics. Carp Cruncher poles are very robust and have been made with the intention of strong elastics to be used.
NB: A full description on setting up poles be included in the Pole fishing page of this site.
Eyed end hooks:
( See Hooks. ) Eyed hooks are the most common designed hooks. It is a small round wire hole made on the end of a hook that lets you tie your fishing line onto it.
Feeders:
Feeders are a container that lets you cast out groundbait with your rig. There are many different forms of feeders. Some of these are; Cage, In-line, Maggot, Method, Closed end, etc. The feeder is usually a small round cylinder about 4 cm's long, and 2 cm's in diameter. It has a lead strip added to the bottom to give it some weight. A loop of line is attached to one end so that you can attach it to your rig. Groundbait or loose feed like maggots or corn can be placed inside the feeder. Feeders can be designed to only allow a small amount of groundbait to fall out, or made to quickly drop it all once it hits the ground. Maggot feeders usually have caps on each end and holes over the feeder to allow them to get out. Cage feeders have no ends, and the cylinder is made like a cage to allow the bait to be released quickly. Feeders are extremely effective. The best catches of fish are often made by using one. It guarantees you that there will always be some groundbait right by your hook.
Fibreglass:
( See Carbon fibre & Composite. ) Fibreglass is a type of material used to make rods and poles with. It is extremely strong but very soft and very heavy. Is best used in combination with carbon fibre.
Fishing:
Fishing is where you go out and try and catch fish. The basics on using a rod and reel to fish are as follows.
Get a rod, a reel with line on it and a rig. You attach the reel onto your rod. The line is pulled out and threaded through the rings on your rod and your rig is tied onto the line end. When you cast, the line is pulled out with your rig. When a fish takes your bait, it pulls the line out off the reel. You use your reel to pull the line back in and land the fish. For further details, please read my site, and hopefully you will learn how to coarse fish. ; )
Fishing line:
( See Monofilament, Perlon, Teflon & Braid. ) Fishing line is the stuff that connects your hook to your reel. It is one of the most important components for fishing. Without it you can't fish. Fishing line comes in many forms and strengths. The most common type is monofilament line. This is made from nylon. More modern lines are being made from perlon and teflon. These have similar properties as nylon, but have other characteristics like being stronger and thinner. Braid is included as more people are using it for either their mainline, or as hooklength line. Braid is made from very strong fibres, and often gives you great line strength with a small line diameter.
Fixed bankstick:
( See Banksticks. ) Fixed banksticks are simply a length of metal rod that has a screw in attachment at one end for you to attach a rod rest. These are other the cheapest forms of bank sticks, but it helps to have one or two as spares when fishing.
Floats:
( See Wagglers, Pole floats, Stick floats & Silicone rubber. ) There are many types of floats. Some of these are; Wagglers, Pole floats and Stick floats. A float is a buoyant indicator that tells you when a fish has picked up your bait. Floats are usually made from a buoyant material like wood or plastic. The top part of a float has a highly visible colour like fluorescent orange. This is called the float tip. The float tip is used to see the float out in the water. Floats are attached to fishing line with pieces of silicone tube or through small holes at the bottom of the float. A float needs weight to sink it to the point that only the float tip is showing. Split shot is often used for this. The amount of weight needed to set the float correctly in the water, is known as the 'Total shotting capacity'. Floats are attached directly to your fishing line. The shot needed to sink the float, is added onto the line between the hook and the float itself. Try and use 2/3rds of the split shot needed, right beneath the float to lock it in place. The other 1/3rd of shot should be placed onto the line nearer the hook. The position that the float should be placed onto the line, is usually the depth of water you want to fish. Have a guess at the water depth, then move the float to that position on the line. Add heaps of weight onto the hook end. You can use a Plummet for this. Keep casting out until you can only see the float tip. Remove the plummet or the extra weight, so that you only have the shot needed to sink the float. You should hopefully now be able to use a float.
The float tip moves when a fish picks up your hook and swims away. The tip usually just disappears from sight. Other times a float tip may rise or roll around. Try striking your float whenever it moves. You should be able to hook most fish by doing this, but if you are having problems, try waiting a couple of seconds when the float moves, then strike.
Float fishing:
( See Floats. ) The use of floats to catch fish. You use different floats for different venues, stick floats for rivers and Waggler's for lakes. A very enjoyable way to fish !
Float rod:
A special Fishing rod that is 12 to 13 feet long. The length enables you to hook a fish with ease. Float rods often have a very soft tip and a slow test curve. This is needed to help not pull the hook out of a fishes mouth. A good float rod should feel like an extension of your arm when fighting fish.
Float tip:
( See Floats. ) Float tips are the top most part of a float. It is painted with a highly visible paint like fluorescent orange or yellow. The tip is the only part of the float that is visible above water. The tip needs to be very visible. They are often cast a long way out into the water and need to be seen above the water surface. Float tips are used to detect if a fish has taken your hook bait. When a fish takes the bait and pulls the line, it pulls the float and float tip beneath the water. You strike when the float tip disappears.
Floatant:
Floatant is a liquid used to coat line to help it float on top of the water. It can come in a spray or a liquid form.
Floaties:
( See Chum mixer & Carp controller floats. ) Floaties are a term given to any floating bait. Dog biscuits and bread work very well. Carp and other fish can be caught on these during Summer.
Forceps:
Forceps are like long thin pliers. They can be used to help remove hooks from fishes mouths. These are a mandatory piece of equipment for removing lures from pike mouths. They are also very useful for other fish as well.
Game fish:
Game fish were the fish that the British aristocracy preferred. The freshwater game fish in England are salmon and trout. Some sea fish are also referred to as game fish.
Gents:
( See Maggots. ) Gents are another way of saying maggots. It was probably done to hide the fact that fishermen were using maggots to fish with, from their wives ! <grin>
Graphite spray:
Graphite spray is used to rebuild any worn carbon fibre surfaces. Joints in poles and rods can wear out over time. This can be used to restore these joints, and prolong the life of this expensive equipment.
Groundbait:
( See Loose feed. ) This is food that is thrown into your swim to attract and keep fish around your hook bait. It acts as an attractant, and helps entice the fish into feeding. The type of groundbait used depends on different fish and different conditions . Groundbait is also known also as Berley. Bread crumb is the most common base for groundbait. The flavours and additives used are very diverse. Anglers have their own special recipes and preferred types. Big companies like Wizzo, Sensas and Hinders are all specialists in groundbait and loose feed for all coarse fishing conditions. The range available is quite staggering. I personally use a simple breadcrumb groundbait with sweetcorn as my hookbait and loose feed. It is cheep but it works very well. Sweet flavours work best all year. Spicy and fishmeal flavours works very well during Summer.
Hair rigs:
( See Boilie needle. ) Hair rigs are a revolutionary design rig. It frees up the full gape of a hook and enables the hook point to be in the best position to hook up. Hair rigs are simply an extra bit of line with small loop at the end, that is tied off of the shank or bend of a hook. You can even just have the hair as the loop. The bait is placed onto this 'hair' by using a boilie needle. The bait is then held in place with a boilie stop or piece of grass that is placed through the small loop. The bait is pushed back against the stopper. Hair rigs enable a bait to be moved around and sucked up by fish without any resistance. When a fish sucks the bait up, the bait and the hook enters the mouth. The hook's weight then makes it's barb point down. The fish either closes its mouth and goes to swim away or tries to spit the bait back out. Either way, the hook hits the lower lip and will probably hook up ! You can't get much better than that !
Hemp seed:
Hemp seed is the seed from Hemp. ( ...or marijuana man ! <grin> ) It is only available in England, and not Australia. I am not sure on America. I am sure any enterprising gang could get into the fishing scene though ! <grin> This seed is sterilised so most of it won't grow if planted. ( Yeah, I can just hear the cries of disappointment ! ) This seed is boiled up until the hard seed casing splits open and you can see the white inside. The hemp seed is then pushed onto the bend of a small fine wire hook, at the place where it split open. It is usually fished on the hook for small fish. Hemp seed is also used as a groundbait additive or loose feed. All fish seem to like it.
Holdalls:
Holdalls are rod bags, made to carry many rods and poles together, in one bag. It helps keep your gear from flying around in the car and also makes carrying your stuff to the bank very fast and neat. You can even get ones that let you have a fully set up rod in them, but they are very long.
Hooks:
A small bent piece of wire that has a sharp point, used to catch a fish. There are many varieties, I preferably use a barbless hook as this causes less damage and is easier to unhook.
Hooklength:
The bit of line that is directly attached to the hook. It should be a lower breaking strain than the main line above it. This is necessary because if your line breaks, then it will break here. It could also save a fish from becoming tethered to the bottom and dying.
Hook Tyers:
Hook tiers are are a designed to help you snell hooks. They are quite good to use but can sometimes not snell very small hooks very well.
In-line feeders:
( See Feeders. ) In-line feeders are designed to run on the main line. There is a small tube that runs down the length of the feeder that the line runs through. You can set your rig up so that this is running free if a fish takes the hook, or locked in place.
In-line leads:
In-line leads are a very useful style of lead. These can have a section of tube running through the lead and out on both sides. This tubing helps the lead not to snag on weed. It also helps in the presentation of the hook and rig. This is my favourite way to ledger.
Insert waggler:
( See Floats & Wagglers. ) Insert wagglers are a variant of a waggler float. Normal wagglers have a tip that flows up from the body. An insert tip is a much thinner and is pushed into the float. Many insert wagglers are made so that the tips can be changed. This means you can change the tip colour or size, depending on the conditions.
Joker:
( See Leam. ) Joker are a small red worm like crustacean that can be found in the silt on lake or river bottoms. They are scooped out with a special instrument from the top silt layer. Joker are a great bait for small fish like Roach. They need to have a fine clay added called leam to help separate them.
Keepnets:
( See Carp sacks. ) A knotless tube net designed to hold fish. They are used during match fishing. They hold any caught fish, so that they can be weighed at the end of the session. Specimen fish should not be held in keepnets. They should, if necessary, only be kept in a carp sack for only one hour. It is best not to cram a keepnet with too many fish. They can crush each other and the stress may kill them. If used correctly, then the fish should be fine.
Landing net handle:
A landing net handle is used with a net head. These can be up to 8 feet long. The best handles are made out of carbon fibre, but fibreglass and composite ones can be cheaper. They are also much heavier. Get a carbon one. If you are bagging up the fish then your arms won't get so tired.
Landing net heads:
Landing net heads come in many different shapes and sizes. The size net you use should cater for the fish you are catching. A net should be deep enough and wide enough so that a fishes head fits in one corner and the tail doesn't hang out. Net heads come in many shapes. Some of the shapes are; Round, Spoon, Triangular, Deep pan, Shallow pan etc. Triangular, deep pan nets are best for carp. There are some special carp net heads where the arms fold together over a fish and the head detaches. This lets you carry the fish without fear of dropping them. Nets can also have different weaves. The knotless varieties are best as they don't tend to get the fishes barbs caught up.
Lead bombs:
Lead bombs are tear shaped lead weights that have a swivel at the pointy end. These come in different sizes. These are a very useful for bolt rigs when ledgering.
Leam:
( See Joker. ) Leam is a special fine white clay used to separate joker.
Ledger stops:
Ledger stops are something that you can use to stop lead weights moving past a certain point on the line. It is simply a small plastic ring that is placed over the line, with a small plug that is placed into the ring, wedging against the line.
Ledgering:
Fishing directly from hook to Fishing rod. You use a weight to cast out. There are many forms of ledgering. These include; the bolt rig, In line lead, The feeder, paternoster rig, using a quiver tip, etc.
Line clips:
Line clips are a small plastic clip that goes over your rod handle. It has a piece of plastic that lets you wedge a bit of line beneath it. This is a very simple bite detector. If the line is pulled out from beneath it, then you have a fish.
Little & constant feeding:
This is when you throw in only a very small of groundbait or loose feed, very frequently. This technique works well when using a catapult. A good interval to use is bait with every cast and at least every few minutes. The more fish that are active, the more frequent the feeding. This is a very good match fishing technique.
Long line:
Using a long line on a pole. A longer line between the float and the pole tip can sometimes get you out to the spot where the fish are feeding. Can be handy to have a bit of line made up to quickly attach it to your rig to get the distance.
Long on:
This is when you use a long hooklength when float fishing. There can be up to one foot of line laying on the bottom. This increased length increases the time it takes for a fish to pull a float tip under. This can be a great technique when using a different hookbait over a bed of groundbait. i.e. A red kidney bean hookbait over a bed of sweetcorn.
Loose feed:
( See Groundbait. ) Loose feed is groundbaiting with a particle bait. Sweetcorn, maize, trout pellets etc are all great things to use. Loose feed lets you have control over exactly how many pieces get put in. This bait is great when thrown little and often.
Lubricants:
Lubricants are needed for the elastics inside poles. The elastics are being pulled in and out a lot, and lubricants help prolong their life. You can use something simple line diluted washing up liquid, or something specialised like silicone lubricant. NB: Never use petrochemical based lubricants as they may degrade the elastic.
Luncheon meat:
Luncheon meat is a great bait for carp and barbel. It is diced up and fished a hair rig. It can be fried in spices to get a good crispy surface.
Maggots:
( See Gents, Casters & Pinkies. ) Maggots are a very good bait for all fish. You can use them to catch very small fish like Roach, or bundle them together for carp. Maggots are also refereed to as gents. They can be coloured and flavoured. One type are refereed to as pinkies. The chrysalis form of a maggot is named a caster. All these different forms of the bait make it very versatile.
Maize:
( See Sweetcorn. ) Maize is a harder, dried up version of corn. You can buy sacks of this that will last you a whole season. Maize has to be soaked or boiled up to make it a bit softer. Many Americans have whole barrels of the stuff fermenting. They add different flavours like strawberry coolaid drink mix as it ferments. Whilst it ends up being very smelly to we humans, the carp apparently love it !
Marker floats:
( See Floats. ) Marker floats are used to give you a visual indicator when fishing far out. They are simply a large float with a big fluorescent top, and a small swivel at the bottom. You need to use a spare rod and reel. Get a heavy lead weight and put it onto the mainline, without a stopper on either side. i.e. it is free running. Tie the end of the line off onto the end of the marker float. cast the marker float out to the point you wish to fish to. Wait till the weight sinks to the bottom, then slowly release the line, until the float appears on the surface. Put the rod aside and you have a marker to fish to.
Hint: You can use this set-up to work out the depth of your swim ! Set the float up as mentioned above and cast out to the spot you want to know the depth of. Wind in the float until you feel it hit the lead weight. Hold onto the line so the float stays at the bottom. Work out a distance of say, one foot from your reel to a point on the rod. Next strip off only enough line from the reel to the one foot mark. Take note of each time you strip line out. Repeat this process until you can see the float appear at the surface. Add up the times you stripped line off and you have the depth of the swim !
NB: If you are a patient person, you can systematically cast out, measure the depth, write it down on a map, reel in a few meters, and repeat the process until you reach the bank. Cast out again a few meters to the side and repeat the process. This will give you an accurate way to measure the contours of your swim ! You may find some features you didn't know existed !
Match fishing:
Match fishing is a competitive form of coarse fishing. It involves people drawing out a random peg ( a place to fish ), and then try and catch as many fish as possible within the match rules and time allotted. Match fishing is a true test on the ability of a coarse angler. To be a consistent competitor, an angler has to be able catch whatever is in their swim. The world championships has entrants from all around the globe. Alan Scotthorne (UK) has been the only match angler to have won the internationals three times. For someone to win this competition shows that they are extraordinary anglers!
Match reels:
Match reels are designed to be very light but sturdy reels. They have special spools that allow you to only put on line you will use. These spools usually have a capacity for 100 to 150 meters of line. Lets face it folks, if a fish can pull out that much line off of your spool then you are using the wrong gear ! ; ) These spools stop line wrap from occuring and let you quickly and cheeply replace old mainline. I recommend these reels to any coarse angler, including carp anglers.
Match rods:
Match rods are made from carbon fibre and are designed to be very strong but light. Their length ranges from 11 foot to 15 foot long. They come in both float and feeder rods. These rods are best suited to fishing for normal fish. They don't have the backbone to land specimen carp, though they work very well on carp up to 15 lb.
Method feeders:
( See Feeders. ) The method feeder is the most effective feeder for carp fishing. They have a central tube where the line is threaded thorough. This tube has three fins attached. These fins are shaped to make the feeder looks tear shaped. A mix of sticky groundbait should be moulded around the feeder. The idea is to bury your hookbait into the feeder, so that any fish that comes to eat the groundbait will also eat the hookbait. It has been so successful that it has been banned at some British venues.
Micro shot:
( See Split shot. ) Micro shot is very small split shot. Micro shot is designed to be used with ultra sensitive pole float rigs. The sizes range from No. 8 ( Small ) to No. 16 ( Bloody tiny ! ) <grin> This size shot should only be used on pre-stretched line as the shot itself is too small to go on larger diameter lines. This type of shot is brilliant for spreading out equally along the line of a float rig. It enables the rig to sink very slowly, letting you to catch any fish from the top down to the bottom of the water. This method is mainly used to catch small fish during matches.
Monofilament line:
( See Fishing line. ) Monofilament line is typically made from nylon. It is a single strand of line. It comes in different diameters and strengths. Modern pre-stretched lines are using plastics like perlon and teflon to get the strength with lower diameters.
Multi-strand line:
( See Fishing line. ) Multi strand line is a bundle of very fine fibres. This line enables you to have a hooklength that spreads out under the water to be almost invisible. The line also is so soft to touch on fishes lips that it is not noticed. One problem with this line is that it can tangle. There are water soluble glues that are available to keep the strands together until the rig is cast into the water and dissolves away.
Nut Drill:
A Nut drill is simply a small drill bit that has has a handle attached to it. This simple device lets you to drill holes through hard boilies, nuts and beans so that you can use them as a hookbait. Try making one today.
Nuts:
( See Nut drill. ) Nuts are an alternate bait. Nuts should preferably be pre-boiled so that fish are able to chew them and digest them. Warning: If peanuts are not precooked then they can kill carp.
Olivettes:
Olivettes are very small cylindrical lead weights designed to be used on float rigs. These are an Italian invention. They come in many sizes and are extremely effective with larger continental pole floats. They can be tear drop shaped or elongated diamond shaped. Olivettes have a hole in the centre and are placed on the line beneath the float. They help give stability to floats used in fast, deep water.
On the drop:
On the drop fishing is when you use a float rig that sinks slowly into the water. You are trying to catch fish that are up in the water. The recommended groundbaiting technique is to feed a little and often, with loose feed or a cloudy groundbait like bread.
Pastes:
This is a very simple but effective type of bait. It is usually made with a bread base and any flavour can be added. Smelly cheese baits work very well, though you can mix and match to target different fish. Simply get a soft loaf of bread, cut off the crusts then add a bit of flavour to it. Keep squeezing it together until you get a nice evenly consistent paste. You can mould some onto the hook or put a ball of it onto a hair rig.
NB: Try and not add too much flavour. A good rule of thumb is that if you like it, then the fish will too.
Peg:
The peg is a pre defined swim for match fishing. A venue is split up into evenly spaced apart with a wooden peg in the ground. Competing anglers have to pick a peg no. out of a hat. This is the place that they then have to fish. This keeps the match fair. During a match, anglers are not allowed to fish out of his peg and any fish that goes out of bounds during a fight is not counted.
Pellets:
These are a bait made up usually as animal feed. The most common type used for fishing are trout pellets. These are nutritionally balanced and fish love them. They can be placed onto a hair rig, used as loose feed or crushed up and made into a paste.
Some anglers also use chicken feed pellets. I personally like to not use them as modern agriculture techniques are incorporating dead animals into this type of feed. Turning herbivores into omnivores is ethically wrong. Lets not forget the mad cow outbreak. What diseases may be transferring to the fish if we use these ?
Perch punch:
Perch punch is a bait made up with chopped worm. You get a whole heap of worms and chop them up. Then get some cheap plastic cups, some small rocks and a jug of flavoured liquid. You divide the chopped worms between the cups, blend in some liquid flavouring ( pick your own favourite one, ) then place a rock in the bottom of the cup. Put them into a freezer till it turns to ice. When you next go fishing, take these in a refrigerated box. ( An esky. ) When you need to throw in some groundbait, remove the frozen perch punch from the plastic container and throw it in. It should sink because of the rock and then slowly melt into your swim. This is great for attracting perch or trout.
Pinkies:
( See Maggots. ) Pinkies are coloured maggots. The maggots absorb red food dye that is added to their food as they grow. These are a great hook bait as they are that bit different to normal maggots.
Pint:
( See Maggots. ) A pint is a measurement the British use when referring to maggots. It is quite common for anglers to use a pint of maggots during a session.
Platforms:
( See Seat box & Station. ) Platforms are used with seat boxes. It is a metal platform with height adjustable legs. They are designed to have seat boxes placed on top of them, and to provide a stable and transportable place to fish from. There are a great range of attachments that can be attached to both platforms and seat boxes. This is refereed to as a fishing station. Octoplus is a top British company that has developed a complete range of interchangeable components that join together as a fishing station.
Plummet:
These are specially designed lead weights, used to help work out a depth of a swim. They are cone shaped, have a small loop at the top, and have a cork base. You attach them to your float rig by threading the hook and line through the top loop, then locking the hook in place by pushing the hook point into the cork. You cast out your float rig and keep adjusting the position of the float until you only see the float tip. You remove the plummet and it should be at the perfect depth.
Polaroid sunglasses:
Polaroid sunglasses help cut out the surface glare made by the suns light reflecting off the water, into your eyes. These glasses are designed to filter out certain light, allowing you to see into the water.
Poles:
( See Elastics & Carp Crunchers. ) Poles are like very long rod blanks. They are held by hand and fished directly over the water. They are usually made of carbon fibre. Poles are split up into many individual sections. The sections can either be telescopic or able to be pulled apart. Poles can range in size from 2.5 meters up to 20 meters long. The most common length used is an 11 meter pole with an extension to 12.5 meters. The two main varieties of poles are whips and elasticised poles. Whips are fished with line tied directly onto the pole tip. These are used to catch very small fish. Elasticised poles have elastic threaded through the top three sections. This elastic is able to be pulled out by fighting fish. Poles are expensive, but are a great way to catch fish. Poles are a very popular method to use during matches. They enable you to fish and feed the one exact position, with ultra light tackle. Floats work very well with poles. You can use very small and sensitive floats. You don't need extra weight to cast them, as the pole literally pushes it over the desired position. People believe that the idea of holding a ruddy big pole over their swim for hours is silly. Trust me, if you use the correct pole gear then you are able to catch at least 20% more fish than you are getting now !
Pole feeder pots:
These are specially designed cups that clip onto the tip of your pole. You put groundbait into them, shunt it out over your swim and tip it out. They come in different sizes for different baits. You can use big ones for balls of groundbait or very small ones for loose feed.
Pole fishing:
( See Poles. ) Pole fishing is the use of poles to catch fish. The length and strengths of poles vary for the fish you wish to catch. Poles enable you to bag up on catching very small fish very quickly. You can also catch small carp on stronger poles. Many of the world records for speed coarse fishing were made by using poles.
NB: See my pole fishing page on this site for an in-depth explanation on pole fishing.
Pole floats:
( See Floats & Poles. ) Pole floats are very small and sensitive. Poles enable you to not have excess weight, usually required for casting. This sensitivity lets you see any float movement at all. Pole floats allow you to fish 'on the drop' very easily. You are also able to fish at any level in the water with confidence. Pole floats weights are usually measured in grams. They usually have a thin tip, small balsa wood body and a thin wire stem. They are usually 15 to 20 cm's long. There are many different body shapes you can have with pole floats. 'Body up' floats have a wider bulge at the top of the float body. 'Body down' floats have the wider bulge at the bottom of the float body. 'Slims' have very long and thin bodies. 'Dibbers' have the float tip as part of the thin float body, instead of a separate tip. 'Continental' pole floats are usually large floats designed to use olivettes in big rivers. Other floats like wagglers can also be used on poles.
Pole rollers:
Pole rollers are a device that help you to protect the back sections of your pole when you are pushing it back and removing them. They come in two forms. The first one is a simple 'V' shape that screws into bankstick. This has a roller on each 'V' arm. These are a bit unstable and are only useful as a forward pole rest. The other main type of roller is a free standing, 4 leg model. They have a horizontal roller, with a vertical end roller on both sides. There are two height adjustable legs that drop down from each end, forming a very stable design. These rollers are used behind you. They provide a stable place for the pole to slide back on.
Pole seat:
( See Seat boxes. ) Pole seats are a specially designed deep cushion that has a central groove running down the middle between your legs. The seat is made to go on top of seat boxes and canal stools. The groove in the seat is wide and deep enough to have the rear pole section fit into it. This is so you can sit on your pole and use your hands. The groove helps protect you from crushing the pole section.
Pole 'U' rests:
Poles can be annoying to continually hold on to, especially when nature calls ! There is a special type of rod rest you can get that is made for holding poles. It is a 'U' shaped rest with the screw in thread on one side. It has two threaded ends, pointing up and down. This is so that you can screw it into a bankstick with the 'U' facing up or down. The great thing about this is that if you use two, you can make the front rod rest face up, and your rear rod rest face upside down. This means that you can put your pole on top of the front one and under the rear one. The weight of the pole out over the water holds the pole in place. If you want some non slip rests then Octoplus make them with soft rubber in the 'U'.
Pole winder anchor:
Pole winder anchors are a soft silicone rubber anchor, used to hold the loose end of a rig on a pole float winder. This helps to stop the rigs unravelling.
Pole winders:
These are plastic rig winders, designed to hold and protect pole float rigs. They are made up with a thin plastic strip with a plastic panel on either side. It looks like the letter 'H' when seen from the bottom. The rig is wound around the centre panel, and the float is protected by the protruding side panels.
Powergum:
Powergum is a very strong silicone rubber line used as a shock absorber for lead weights and feeders. It is generally used when you need to cast out a long way, without breaking off on the cast.
Pre baiting:
Pre baiting is when you throw in groundbait into a place you intend to fish the next day. It attracts the fish into that area to feed. Pre baiting can also be done over longer periods. The most common pre baiting is by groundbaiting every night for a week. The fish get trained into believing that a steady supply of food can be found there. Whilst this is an effective way to get big fish, I can't help feeling this is cheating. I have used it once and caught my personal best fish. I intend to go back and try and get a better fish without doing this again.
Pre-stretched line:
Pre-stretched line is line that has been stretched out so it is much thinner. The line still retains it's strength, but no longer has the stretch that other lines have. The thin diameter helps you to have a very sensitive rig to catch smaller or more shy fish. I have found that the best way to use these lines is with pole float rigs and as the hook length line on normal rigs. I stick to normal line for my mainline as it is more robust.
PTFE bush:
( See Poles & Elastics. ) PTFE bushes are a special protector used on the cut tip of poles. PTFE stands for Poly Tetra Fluro Ethylene. ( A kind note of thanks to my Dad for that. ) This plastic has a very low friction level. This means that it is very smooth and slippery. PTFE bushes help protect pole elastics from wearing out. They come in two varieties: internal and external. Internal PTFE bushes give slightly more protection to elastics as the sleave fits into the hole at the top of the pole. These unfortunately require you to cut a bit more from the tip to fit. External PTFE bushes are designed to fit onto the outside of the pole tip. They have a small collar that keeps the elastic from rubbing against the edge of the hole. The diameter of the hole in the PTFE bush should relate to the size of elastic being used. If you are only after small fish and use a No. 5 elastic, only use a No. 5 PTFE bush, made by the same company that made the elastic. This means that you don't have to cut off too much pole tip and also helps to keep out grit from getting inside the pole tip. If you are fishing for carp then I suggest that you use the maximum recommended elastic size. Most Carp poles take a No.14 elastic. Try and always use the largest recommended size elastic and PTFE bush for carp. I can guarantee that you will need to use them when pole fishing for them.
Push-in joints:
Push-in joints are a type of joint used on removable pole sections. It is where if you had the pole tip out in front of you, the sections being added at the rear end would have to be pushed into the end of the one in front of it.
Put-over joints:
Put-over joints are a type of joint used on removable pole sections. It is where if you had the pole tip out in front of you, the sections being added at the rear end would have to be pushed over the end of the one in front of it.
PVA:
PVA is a water soluble plastic. i.e. It dissolves in water. It has been made up into special string and bags, that can be used to attach groundbait to your rig. This PVA will then dissolve once it is in the water and the groundbait will be left around your hookbait. PVA can take a bit longer to dissolve in cold winter water. It is important not to use wet bait with PVA as it will begin to dissolve when they touch.
PVA bags:
( See PVA. ) PVA can be made into bags designed to be tied to your rig, and hold groundbait. There are two types of bags available. There are solid PVA bags and PVA string netting bags. The solid bags can hold smaller groundbait but take longer to dissolve in winter. PVA string bags are great for boilies and dissolve very quickly. These are good for using in winter.
PVA string:
( See PVA. ) This is PVA made into string. It is useful when making a stringer of extra boilies or pellets to be tied onto a rig. The PVA string dissolves very quickly and can be used just like a piece of line. You can buy spools of this and dissolves very well in cold water.
Quiver tip:
A quiver tip is a special type of rod used to detect bites when ledgering. It has a very sensitive tip that curves over when a fish a fish pulls on the fishing line. Quiver tips vary in strength and stiffness. These tips are often interchangeable depending on the weather and conditions. There are two types of tips available; screw in tips and push in tips. Screw in tips have a very fine threaded end that screws into a special end eye on the rod. Alignment of the thread and the eyes can occasionally be a problem. Push in tips are the better type. They are simply pushed into the rod tip.
Quiver tips are fished at right angles to the line. It is best to tighten the line and to put a slight curve in the tip when fishing. When a fish takes your hookbait, it pulls the line and the sensitive tip curves with it. If the fish swims toward you, the slightly bent tip will straighten and the line will go slack. If a fish swims away then the tip will bend right over and the line will be pulled off the reel. It is important to strike whenever the tip moves. If you find you are missing fish, try waiting until the tip bends right over.
Quiver tip target board:
( See Quiver tip. ) A quiver tip target board is used to help see if the tip is moving. It is roughly 20 cm's by 20 cm's large. It is designed to screw into a bankstick. The target board is usually black with vertical white stripes. The target board should be positioned in front of the rod, so that you can spot any tip movement. The target board can also help to act as a wind break for the tip.
Red worm:
Red worm is a small worm that lives in the top layer of silt in rivers and lakes. Fish are often found rooting around in the silt to eat them. They can be harvested with the same instrument used to catch joker. Red worm is a great small fish bait, though Carp love it !
Riddles:
These are like a large mesh sieve and are used to separate maggots from the material they were grown in. These work very well.
Rig bin:
Rig bins are specially designed round plastic screw top containers. There is a round foam insert that is attached to the middle of the lid. When the lid is screwed in, the round foam insert fills most of the space inside, but leaves about a 1.5 cm gap between itself and the plastic container. The foam insert is used to hold pre made rigs. These rigs are wound around the foam. Once you have secured your rigs, you can re-insert the foam and lid and screw it back on. The rigs will now be protected from damage or tangling up.
Rig pouch:
Rig pouches are about the same size as a normal wallet. They have a zipper around three sides. When this is unzipped the pouch opens to reveal many plastic sleeves that can be used to place rigs into. A rig pouch holds between 10 to 20 rigs. These rigs have to be rolled up and slid into the plastic sleeves. Unfortunately rig pouches are not big enough to hold any lead weights, and should only be used for front end rigs.
Rig tube:
Rig tube is made from either silicone tubing or shrink tubing. It usually has a small diameter. It is used as part of your rig and provides protection to the line or braid from sharp rocks or getting tangled. Rig tube is usually used with ledger rigs like in-line leads or rigs to keep the hook out of silt. It can either be very soft or slightly stiff depending on what you make it out of.
Roaming:
Roaming is where you cast around all of your swim in the search of fish. This technique is very good once bites start to drop off. It is best not to start groundbaiting all over the place but to keep feeding the one or more areas that you initially selected.
The best way to groundbait your swim is to feed some groundbait in close ( about 2 or 3 rod lengths away ) and one out far. The idea is to cast and fish to one groundbait bed for the first part of the session and then cast and fish the other one when bites start to drop off. It is important to keep a steady amount of groundbait going into both areas, even if it is just a few grains of loose feed. This is so that the food doesn't run out and let the fish swim away. You will find that if you leave the bed out far alone but still feed to it, that the bigger and more cautious fish will move in to feed there. I usually use this groundbaiting technique in warmer weather.
Rod pod:
( See Buzz bar and Bite alarm. ) This is a device that lets you fish with two or three rods set up, side by side, at once. It is similar to having all your bank sticks combined into one unit. Rod pods don't need to be pushed into the ground. They are made to adjust and sit in the desired position off the ground.
Rod Pods are made up of two upside down 'Y' shaped ends, with a support bar between them. The two 'Y' shapes are made from three pieces of metal bar. One bar is pointing up in the air. This has a female threaded end. The other two angle down towards the ground. These are the legs. The legs are adjustable so you can set the rod pod up on uneven ground. The centre support bar joins the two 'y' shaped ends together. This bar is also adjustable. This lets you change the distance between each end.
A device called the buzz bar can be attached to the upward bars with threaded ends. This lets you put more than one rod on the rod pod at one time. Bite alarms and swing indicators can also be used with the buzz bars and rod pod. It is a neat system that lets you fish in many different places that may have only let you originally fish with one rod.
Rod rests:
( See banksticks. ) Rod rests are something you can use to help keep your rod off the ground when fishing. The traditional method is to use a forked wood stick. A great system has been developed for coarse fishing. Special metal bars called banksticks have a threaded end. Rod rests are able to be screwed into the tops of these banksticks. The banksticks other end is then pushed into the bank. This gives you a place to rest your rod.
There are many different varieties of rod rests available. There are simple 'U' shaped rests for one rod, right up to wide rests that allow you loads of places to put your rod. The angle of rod rests can also be adjusted on most models. This means that you can always have the rest pointing upwards, even if the bankstick is pushed into the ground on an angle. Rod rests are fairly cheep as they are made from plastic. They are also fairly small. This means that you can carry a good selection of different rod rests with you when you go fishing. I think that rod rests and banksticks are a mandatory piece of fishing tackle. I use them whenever I go fishing.
Sausage gun:
( See Boilie rolling table. ) Sausage guns are like very large icing decorators used on cakes or like silicone sealant guns used for sealing bathrooms etc. They are used to help squirt out a long sausage of boilie mix so it can be made into even size boilies. These are often used with boilie rolling tables so you can make lots of boilies very quickly. Anyone who has made boilies by hand will know how long and tedious it can be. You make up a boilie mix and blend it into a paste. Spoon this mix into the sausage gun until it is full. The sausage gun has a trigger lever on its side that is pushes the boilie mix out of the front nozzle. The nozzle size can be changed to give you different size sausages and boilies.
Scales:
Scales are used to measure the weight of a fish. There are different variations available. Most people use small spring scales that weighs to within a half pound or so. These are not very accurate. Scales that are used to weigh fish during matches need to be much more accurate and need to be able to measure the exact weight. You can now buy digital scales that display the exact weight of the fish on a display screen. Most scales weigh up to a total of 50 lbs. If you are fishing for a specimen fish, you need to make sure the scales you use are accurate and can cope with big weights. i.e. The largest carp caught was over 80 lbs. so if you are after one of them, make sure that you have scales that can handle that weight. You also need to have two other people to witness specimen fish before it can be officially recognised.
Seam:
( See Crease. ) The seam is another way of describing the 'crease'.
Self depth adjusting Waggler:
( See Floats & Wagglers. ) Self depth adjusting wagglers are floats that automatically set themselves to the correct depth. They are also refereed to as ledger floats. They have a special two point friction device at the float bottom where the line is put through. The idea of these floats is to set up your rig as though you are ledgering with a lead weight, but making sure the float is on the main line. You cast it out into the water and leave the line slack. The float rises to the surface. Once you can see it, tighten the line till you can only see the float tip. The float will lock itself onto the line as long as the line is tight. These are not as sensitive as some floats but they do let you float fish out at great distances in deep water. It is argued that if you are setting up the rig to ledger, why bother with the float at all ? I suppose it is really just an alternative for float fanatics to be able to float fish even when they should be ledgering.
Seat box:
( See Platforms & Station. ) Seat boxes are specially designed boxes made to hold all of your tackle and to be used as a fishing seat. Seat boxes are often used for match fishing. They have many drawers and compartments that can be used to hold tackle that you use when fishing. Seat boxes are also designed to be the main part of a fishing station. These boxes can either sit on top of platforms or have height adjustable legs attached onto it. Companies like Octoplus have specialised in making components to convert a set box into a fishing station. Seat boxes are big and heavy but they do allow you to have all of your gear in the exact position you want it to be. These are very useful if you do a lot of match fishing.
Session:
A session is the period of time you spend fishing in a day. A typical session length is five hours. They are often refereed to as 'morning sessions', 'afternoon sessions' or a 'day session.' It is really just a convenient term used to refer to your last fishing trip.
( ...and no, the term didn't come from drug-taking !... <grin> )
Setting shot:
( See Tell-tale shot, Total shotting capacity & Split shot. ) The setting shot is a piece of split shot used in float rigs. This extra piece of shot adds enough weight on top of the total shot capacity, to sink the float when it is lifted by a fish. The setting shot is placed as the last piece of shot just before the hook. It is usually about 15 to 20 cm's away from the hook. The setting shot has to be sitting on the bottom before it will work. When a fish sucks up the bait, it will also suck the setting shot off the bottom. When this shot is lifted up, it momentarily adds enough weight to sink the float tip. This lets you know exactly when a fish has taken the bait. The best way to keep the setting shot's size very small and still be enough weight to sink the float tip, is to use very thin and sensitive float tips. It is also best to make sure that you have the correct amount of split shot on the float rig when you make it. This lets you be able to add a setting shot later on in the session if needed.
Shedfull:
This is when you catch a fish on every cast. " Your sitting on a shedfull. " These days don't come very often so be sure to enjoy it on the day ! <grin>
Shirt buttoned shot:
( See Floats & Shotting pattern. ) Shirt buttoning shot is a way to place split shot onto your float rig, and make it take the most time possible to sink into the water. The shot used to set the float is spread out in even distances along down the float rig. The best way to distribute the weight is by using the smallest shot you can find. I find that No. 8 split shot is a good size to use, as it is big enough to fit onto any diameter line, but still be small enough for you to distribute the weight evenly. The advantage of using very small shot is that if you loose one or two, your float will still work ok. It also lets you to fine tune your float rig so you can detect and catch more fish.
Short line:
A short line is a pole fishing term. It is when you have a very short piece of line between the pole float and the pole tip. Using a short line is useful in very windy conditions. It helps you to maintain a greater amount of control over the float. The short line also lets you be able to strike fish very quickly. This is often necessary when catching very small fish.
Shot:
( See Split shot. ) An abbreviated version of saying split shot.
Shotting pattern:
( See Bulk shot & Shirt buttoned shot. ) This is the pattern that you use when attaching shot onto the line below the float. Different floats, rigs and conditions need different shotting patterns. The two main ways to position shot is in bulked together or spread out on the line. Bulking the shot makes the rig drop down to the bottom very quickly. This is useful to help avoid nuisance fish. Shirt buttoning the shot lets you make the rig sink as slowly as possible. The only real way to learn what pattern you need to catch fish is through experimentation. Try changing the position of the shot when you are fishing and see if you can catch more or different fish. The longer you keep at it, the more you will be able to instinctively know what to do. Good coarse anglers are people who know when and what to change their techniques to keep catching fish.
Shrink tube:
( See Rig tube. ) Shrink tube is a type of tube that shrinks when it is heated. It is made for bundling wires together, but it can be used as rig tube. It is often handy to have a few different lengths of this tube with your fishing gear.
Silicone rubber:
( See Rig tube. ) This is tubing made out of silicone rubber. Silicone rubber is very good as it is UV resistant, ( i.e. won't crack in the sun, ) and is very stretchy. The tube comes in many different colours and sizes. It is often cut up into small round pieces and used to hold floats onto the fishing line. Pole floats often use three pieces of silicone rubber. One is positioned at the base of the float tip, another just below the float body and the last at the bottom of the float. The main line is threaded through each piece of tube. This lets you be able to simply slide the float up and down the line until it is in the correct position. Silicone rubber can also be used as rig tube. It is very versatile stuff. Always try to keep a packet of various sized silicone rubber in your tackle box.
Skid bungs:
Skid bungs are used to protect the ends of pole sections. They are made from plastic and the end is bullet shaped. They have a slice taken out of one side so that they can slide correctly into the hollow ends of pole sections. They come in varying sizes to fit all pole sections. They help protect the ends of pole sections from being damaged. They also help as a 'slide-in guide' when you join sections together. If you ever drop a pole section into the water, they can help keep enough air in it for you to jump in and rescue it.
Slab:
A slab is another way of referring to a Bream. Bream are very thin but large round fish.
Slider:
A slider is a way to float fish deep water. If you are fishing a venue that is deeper than your rod length then it is often easier to set up a sliding waggler. It is best to use a large bodied waggler with a large eye at the bottom. A sliding float is set up so that it can slide up along the line to wherever you put a stop knot. Place the stop knot at the point on the main line where the float will be set at the correct depth. Stop knots can be tied on with a piece of line. Stop knots are able to be wound in through the rod guides and onto the reel. This means that you can have the float down near the hook when you need to cast. Cast out the float and make sure that line can easily be pulled off the spool. Once the rig hits the water, the hook and setting shot sink down, pulling line off of the spool. The float should sit on the surface of the water as the rig sinks, up until the point when the stop knot hits the end of the float. If the position of the knot is correct then the hook and shot should pull the float down until you can only see the float tip. Once you get the hang of setting up this float then you should be able to float fish a wide range of venues.
Snelling:
( See Spade end hooks. ) Snelling is knot used to tie spade end hooks. This knot is very strong and improves the presentation of the hook to the line. You can also snell normal eyed hooks. See below for a description on how to snell a hook.
How to snell a hook:
1.) Get a hook and some line.
2.) Hold the hook so the bend is on the left hand side.
3.) With the line coming from the right, make a loop above the left hand side of the hook.
4.) Grasp the end of the line that looped back from the left.
5.) Wrap the line around the shank of the hook from the right to the left.
6.) Wrap the line around the shank six or seven times.
7.) Thread the end of the line up through the loop at the front.
8.) Moisten the knot with your mouth.
9.) Slowly pull both the mainline and the end of the line to tighten the knot.
10.) Make sure the knot is slid up to the front of the hook.
11.) Trim the end of the line up close to the knot.
12.) Lock the knot with a drop of super glue.
Spade end hooks:
( See Snelling. ) Spade end hooks have an up-turned flattened piece of metal instead of an eye. These hooks aren't much different to normal hooks but do require to be snelled.
Specimen:
Specimen is a term given to any fish that is very big for its species. Many people become addicted in the search of specimen fish. Specimen fish are usually found in sheltered and protected waterways. A specimen carp is considered to be anything above 30lbs. A specimen perch is anything above 3.5 lbs. It is important for people to treat these fish with care as they take many years to grow to that size.
Split shot:
( See Micro shot. ) Split shot are small lead balls that are cut halfway through. They are squeezed around your line to add weight. They are most commonly used for float fishing but can be very handy for ledgering. They come in many sizes.
Stalking:
( See Watercraft. ) Stalking is when you quietly walk along a venue to spot fish and then try and catch them. This is usually done on well sheltered rivers or lakes. The idea is to only carry the bare essential tackle so that you can sneak up to a fish, cast to it and hopefully catch it. It is important to remember not to make lots of noise, walk too heavily or let your shadow fall across the water. If you do then you may put the fish down. Anyone who has fly-fished will know how important presentation is when stalking fish. Species like trout are very wary. If you are river fishing then it is best if you walk up the river. This is because fish face into the current to feed. If you are stalking fish in a lake then it is best if you use an ultra light rig so that you don't make a big splash in the water when you cast. Try crouching down and using any available cover from reeds to trees. You need to be both patient and persistent. A good knowledge of watercraft is also a great asset. If you know the types of features to look for then you should be able to find more fish.
Station:
( See Seat box & Platform. ) A fishing station is a system that combines many pieces of equipment into the one unit. Fishing stations are usually made up of a seat box and some sort of adjustable platform. Companies like Octoplus have developed a whole range of adjustable arms and trays that lets you to set up your station to your own specifications. You can have your bait set up on a tray to your side, have your keepnet right within reach, have a quiver tip rod resting out on an arm on the side and still be able to fish a pole out the front of you, all at the same time ! The adaptability of a fishing station lets you to place everything within reach, in exactly the same position, no matter where you fish. Fishing stations are very popular for match fishing. They let you keep a very large range of different tackle for different methods all within the reach of your hand. They may seem to be an extravagant thing to get but they really do make fishing a lot easier.
Star point hooks:
Star point hooks are a specially designed hook designed by Drennan. The point is shaped like a spear head. This helps hold the point in a fishes mouth.
Stepped waggler:
( See Floats & Wagglers. ) Stepped wagglers are floats that increasingly get bigger down nearer the float bottom The size increases are done by stepping up the diameter. The float looks like it has steps in it. There are only usually three steps in this type of float. These are usually used in rivers but work fine in lakes. They can either have a thick or slim float tip.
Stick floats:
( See Trotting & Floats. ) Stick floats are usually made out of a long straight piece of wood or out of a quill. Stick floats are most commonly used in rivers. The long thin body is needed to help keep the float body up in fast flowing water. The float is attached to the fishing line by two or three silicone rubber sleeves. They are usually trotted down a current. When using a stick float, it is important to keep your rod tip high in the air to minimise the bow in the line.
Stonfo adaptors:
( See Poles & Elastic. ) Stonfo adaptors are used with elasticised poles. They are the connector used to tie the elastic end at the tip of a pole to the line of a pole float rig. The stonfo adaptor stops the elastic from going all the way back into the pole. The elastic in a pole should always be tight enough to hold the stonfo adaptor snugly against the pole tip, yet have enough stretch in it for a fish to be able to pull it out. Stonfo adaptors are made from plastic. They have a hook where a loop in the end of a rig hooks over. The stonfo adaptor also has a sleave that pulls down over the hook to lock the rig in place.
Styl:
( See Split shot. ) Styls are a variation on split shot. They are very thin lead bar that is cut half way through lengthwise. Styles come in many different sizes. They are designed to be used on pole float rigs, but unfortunately have a tendency to make the rig tangle. They help to spread the weight down over the length of the float rig. Most people opt to use split shot or micro shot.
Surface fishing:
( See Chum mixer. ) Surface fishing is when you fish with floating baits and target rising fish. The most common method is to use a carp controller float and some floating dog biscuit or bread flake as bait. Throw out some floating groundbait and wait for some fish to take it before you cast out. This means that you can cast right in the middle of the feed, even if the wind has moved the floaties. There are other methods you can use to catch fish on the surface. Using very small and sensitive pole floats that are made with a very small rig length can also get fish.
Sweetcorn:
( See Maize & Loose feed. ) Sweetcorn is simply canned corn that you would normally eat yourself. Corn is one of the most cheapest yet effective bait to catch carp. In places like England where fish have been caught many times on corn, they may stop to eat it. In places like Australia and America where the fish are wild and have never been caught before, corn is one of the best baits around. It is the bait that I use all the time. Corn can be flavoured or coloured. It is a great loose feed bait. It is also a great additive to groundbait. Corn works great straight on the hook or on a hair rig.
Swim:
The place where you are fishing. ( or what you do when you fall in ! <grin> )
Swing indicator:
( See Bite alarms ) Swing indicators are a very simple yet effective bite indicator. They are commonly used with electronic bite indicators. A swing indicator has a upwards facing open end clip. This clip is attached to a stiff bar that is anchored on a bankstick. The clip is placed onto the line and pulled down half way. When a fish takes your bait and pulls the line, the swing indicator will be pulled up. If a fish takes the bait but swims toward you, then the line will go slack and the swing indicator will drop down. It is simple but effective. The clips can come in different fluorescent colours. They are usually attached to the base of bite alarms.
Swing tip rods:
Swing tip rods are a special type of rod that have a tip that hangs down. It uses a reverse logic to a quiver tip. The line is threaded through normal guides on the swing tip, but the tip itself is attached to the rod by a floppy piece of tube. The tip ends up hanging downwards. When a fish takes your bait and pulls the line tight, the swing tip is pulled up. When you see it move upwards then you strike the fish. This type of indicator is going out of fashion but still works well on rivers.
Swivels:
Swivels are a very basic but handy device. They are basically two small metal rings that are attached either side of a small metal body. These rings are able to be freely rotated. Swivels are used in rigs with moving parts or rigs where you need to join line to braid. They can also be used to add a little bit of extra weight.
Tackle:
Tackle is a term used to refer to any fishing equipment.
Telescopic:
( See Poles. ) Telescopic rods or poles are made out of many sections that all slide and fit together. Each section fits inside the other. They slide out of the open end and lock inside the end of the section behind it. Telescopic rods are quite popular in Italy. They are very quick to assemble or collapse. They are great for travelling or walking in to inaccessible places as they pack up to a very small size. Telescopic poles were the first type of pole made. They are a bit difficult to use above six meters in length. Whips are often made with telescopic sections.
Tell-tale shot:
( See Setting shot. ) Another term for a setting shot.
Test curve:
The test curve ( T/C ) is the time and weight needed to make the tip bend 90 degrees from the rod butt. Each rod has a test curve. There are three main types of actions a rod can have; fast, medium or slow. A fast test curve is when a rod bends over very quickly and easily. This type of rod blank is usually very soft. A medium test curve is when the rod takes longer to bend over. This is the most typical type of action a rod will have. A slow test curve is when the blank takes a long time and sufficient effort to bend over. These rods are much stiffer and are usually made to fight and land big fish.
The weight associated with a test curve is the amount of lead needed to make the rod tip bend 90 degrees from the rod butt. Most coarse fishing rods have the test curve measured in lbs. Match rods can be very sensitive rods with only a 3/4 lbs. T/C. The average carp rod has a 2.5 lbs. T/C.
NB: Please take note that weight and type of action are not related. Some float rods may have a very sensitive tip, but can still have a lot of strength and curve left in the blank. This can sometimes result in a bit of confusion. If you are going to buy a rod, it is best if you can have a look at it before you make a decision.
Top sections:
( See Poles. ) The top sections of a pole are usually made up of three or four sections. These are usually made to be telescopic so that you can easily elasticise it. It needs to be telescopic so that you can slide the sections together and not have the elastic get tangled.
Total shotting capacity:
( See floats. ) The total shotting capacity of a float is the amount of weight needed to set the float so only the float tip is showing. This is called setting the float to depth. The total shotting capacity is usually written on coarse floats as a weight. This is only a rough guess at the actual weight needed. You should always test how much split shot is needed to set a float to depth. This can be done by attaching a small length of line to the bottom of the float, get a long container full of water, then keep adding pieces of shot until only the fluorescent tip is above the water. Take note of the amount of shot needed and write it down somewhere. It may also be worth your while making the float and shot up as a float rig and putting it on a winder. This means that you can quickly attach it to your line and be ready to fish.
Trolley:
( See Seat box & Station. ) Trolleys are used to help carry your seat box. It is like a luggage trolley, with a upright handle and some big wheels. You need to strap the seat box onto the long handle to secure it. These are useful if you have to walk a long way to your swim and need to use a seat box. They also save you from possible back strain.
Trotting:
( See Stick float. ) Trotting is a method used when fishing a river with a stick float. It is when you let the float move down in the main flow of water. A firm knowledge of watercraft is essential so that you know where the fish will be found in the water. Fast rivers are a lot more difficult to fish than still waters. The fish are a lot more closer to the surface and are usually quite shy. The best way to fish a river is to walk upstream, casting the float up into the water and letting it drift down the river. Unfortunately I cannot give any secret techniques as I myself am new to coarse fishing on fast rivers.
Umbrella:
( See Brolly. ) Umbrellas are used to protect you from rain, wind and sunshine. Coarse fishing umbrellas are very big and are similar to beach umbrellas. The umbrella has a height adjustable rod that is stuck into the bank. It also has a screw in joint half way up the main rod that lets you put the brolly at a 45 degree angle. Umbrellas can sometimes have guy-rope attachments so you can anchor the sides down in a strong wind. There are also bivvy covers that can go over them to make a quick and cheep form of tent too keep you and your gear dry. I think having a brolly is worth having, even if you do get a few weird looks now and then.
Unhooking mat:
( See Carp slings ) Unhooking mats are used to protect a fish from getting damaged when placed on the bank. They are designed to be wet with water and have a special surface that doesn't remove the slime off of fish. These are highly recommended at places where fish are caught many times. They are about .5 a meter by .25 a meter in size.
Venue:
( See Swim. ) The area or place you are fishing. i.e. A lake or river etc.
Waggler float:
( See Floats. ) Wagglers are attached to the line through a hole at the base of the float. Wagglers come in many different forms. These are as follows:
- The insert waggler
- The bodied waggler
- The stepped waggler
- The crystal waggler
- The self depth adjusting waggler
Wagglers give an exaggerated movement of what the fish is doing with your hook bait. Many people prefer to use wagglers for all of their float fishing. They come in a huge range of shapes, sizes and colours and are a very impressive type of float !
Watercraft:
Watercraft is the study and knowledge of both fish and the environment they live in. It is made up of many different things; knowing the types of places fish can be found; when the fish will eat; how they eat; what impact different water flow has on fish; the different types of weather and how fish respond to them...etc. As you can see it seems to be very involved. Most knowledge is picked up when you go and fish. Another great way to learn is to chat to fellow fishermen, and to read books and magazines on fishing. Don't be worried if you are new to fishing. You will be amazed at how much you learn by yourself just by being next to the water. And what better way could there be to learn than when catching fish !
Whips:
( See Poles. ) Whips are a special type of pole. They were the first style of pole to be used. They are usually much lighter than carp poles. Whips should only be used to catch very small fish. Whips don't use an internal elastic. They simply have the float rig tied directly onto the end of the pole tip. Whips let you to be able to catch lots of very small fish very quickly. Because you are only targeting small fish, you can use very fine tackle. Very small pole floats and line of around 3/4 to 2 lbs. is used. This is so you catch smaller fish and to let the hooklength break off if a big fish takes the bait. The most common whip length is 6 meters long.
Wide gape hooks:
( See Hooks. ) Wide gape hooks are hooks that have a big distance between the hook point and the hook shank. These are often used with hair rigs when fishing for specimen carp. They also let you to put large baits like luncheon meat right onto the hook and still have the point clear to hook the fish.
No definitions.
1.
Designed and made by Sean Roberts
sean_m_roberts@hotmail.com
~ Please do not SPAM me ~
1. ) Image originally from the
"Improve Your Coarse Fishing" magazine. Editor: Gareth Purnell